Dressed le pantalon: trousers version

The plan

After finishing my wearable shorts toile, I was ready to attack the long pants version of the Dressed Pantalon. I used the same zero-stretch Ankara fabric, but baste fit the pattern from a size 42. Size 42 was a better starting point for me, and I only needed to take off some excess fabric at the back inseam to get a good enough fit (lucky for once!).

Note: you may want to lengthen the pattern unless you want the pants slightly cropped – I am 157cm “tall” (11cm less than the draft) and the pants are just the right length for me.

The pattern has a faux fly, but I wanted a real fly to make these easier to get on and off. I adapted the pattern pieces from the Dawn jeans and increased the length of the waistband by 3cm (for the fly) + 2cm (for the edge seams).

Result

I’m super happy with how these turned out! It’s been a while since I wore this silhouette and I like it. I think I’ll make a top in the same fabric (maybe the Blouse from the same book).

Details

Pattern

• Le Pantalon from the Dressed book by Deer and Doe (now owned by Closet Core)

Size

• Blended between sizes 38-42

Modifications

• Added real button fly

Fabric

• Ankara wax fabric (not sure exactly how much, because I pattern matched the front pieces with the pockets)

Project notes

08.02.26

Cut pattern pieces in a straight size 42, except the waist band. Skipped the faux fly and cut straight up.

Used the Dawn jeans pattern pieces for a button fly: fly, fly extension, button fly (with holes).

Cut a longer waist band to fit the new fly extension.

09.02.26

Stay-stitched and baste fit:

• crotch curve ok
• inseam too long (thigh-to-hip diagonal drag lines)

Pinned out 1.5cm vertically along back, then transferred the adjustment to the back inseam on the pattern. Unstitched the fabric pieces and trimmed the back inseam.

Constructed button fly:

1. Finish raw edges of front crotch.
2. Interface button fly piece, sew 3 button holes.
3. Fold fly extension in half, right sides together, then sew 6mm along bottom edge, and turn right side out.
4. Finish raw edges of long side of fly extension, and outer curved sides of fly and button fly.
5. Place fly extension on right crotch edge, right sides together, sew 6mm from edge, then clip into seam allowance and flip right side out.
6. Place fly on left crotch edge, right sides together, sew 1.5cm from edge, then clip into seam allowance and flip inside.
7. Place button fly on top of fly, aligning curved edges, topstitch carefully.
8. Place front legs right sides together, sew remaining crotch seam 1.5cm from edge, clip into seam allowance and press seam towards left side.

10.02.26

Sewed front pockets, using French seams for the curve this time (instead of the raw edge like the shorts version).

Sewed the fronts and backs together at the sides, then at the crotch.

Made a hot mess of the waistband but it worked out in the end:

• sewed the end of the elastic into the end seams of the waistband (cause lumps when I turned it right side out)
• sewed button hole directly into the elastic (machine got stuck and bobbin stitching looks bad)
• needed 3 attempts to get the left side (front) lined up nicely with the button fly below (thanks elastic doing elasticky things)

But it’s great and I’ll probably add a real fly to any elastic waist pants going forward – easier to get on and off over wide hips.