Dressed le pantalon: shorts version
Not much in my wardrobe currently fits this fluctuating body, and it’s been wearing me down lately. Guilt over “wasted” time/effort/money on the things I’ve made that no longer fit, and guilt over the accumulation of “stuff” in this tiny apartment due to the lack of recycling solutions.
I’ve been delaying making new clothes until my size/shape stabilizes – but this is just making me feel worse, because I’m both too fat and too skinny to fit stuff I’ve made already.
So I’ve finally decided that the world is still on fire but I can try making stuff that will grow a little bit with me. First stop: pants.
The plan
I chose to go back to the first pants pattern I ever made: Le Pantalon from the Dressed book by Deer and Doe. It’s a mid-rise, elastic waist, straight leg trouser that tapers at the ankle. I remember my first pair feeling very comfy, and I had sized down 1 size.
Me and pants are complicated, so before jumping straight in, I decided to make a wearable toile of the shorts version (B) using some Ankara wax fabric I have in my stash*. My waist and hip measurements are currently 72cm and 100cm, and I graded between sizes 38 and 40.
Result
The shorts look great but feel a bit tight, especially in non-stretch fabric. Will try a straight size 42 in my next attempt (finished hips 110) – may need waist darts or grading to smaller waist. I love the fabric and am pleased with my pattern matching on the pockets.
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* I really wish I didn’t have a fabric stash, it feels like such a waste of precious space and resources. But a lot of my projects got put on the back burner when I gained a whole lot of weight, then lost a whole lot of weight. Sigh.
Details
Pattern
- Le Pantalon from the Dressed book by Deer and Doe (now owned by Closet Core)
Size
- Blended between sizes 38-40
Modifications
- None other than blending/grading between sizes
Fabric
- Ankara wax fabric (not sure exactly how much, because I pattern matched the front pieces with the pockets)
Project notes
05.02.26
Pattern traced at sizes 38-40:
- Inseam: 38
- Outer seam: 40 at hip, blended to 38 at knee
- Waist band: ~39 (for the weird grading above)
07.02.26
Cut out the pieces from fabric, pattern matching the pockets with the front pieces.
Overlocker was behaving well today! Sewing with Ankara wax fabric is really nice and easy. Need more Ankara clothes :)
Not sure if I’ve just misunderstood the instructions, but the raw pocket edges along the curve are not properly finished. I will change this in the next version, because I’m a lazy launderer (just chuck everything in at 30º for 30 minutes then line dry).
Fit:
- Back rise slightly short, especially when seated/bending
- Hips slightly tight, especially in non-stretch fabric
- Next attempt: try straight size 42 (finished hips 110) – may need waist darts or grading to smaller waist
