Zero waste project 9: slouchy linen jacket

Zero waste sewing project n°9: a slouchy linen jacket!

This is a modified #zwworkwearjacket by @birgittahelmersson – inspired by @slowrituals.studio and @almyraruth, I cut it 30cm shorter (otherwise it would have reached my knees). I made it from 140cm2 of the same linen as the shorts I made recently, and also added a cotton satin lining. The pattern size depends on fabric width and pieces can be adjusted easily to be wider/narrower/longer/shorter.

The pattern doesn’t actually include a lining but I really wanted to use these two fabrics together. I asked Birgitta if it would need a back pleat and vertical ease, she said just adding vertical ease should be enough and of course she was right!

I didn’t really know what I was doing but did have an idea of the construction order I’d need to follow. I sewed the shell and lining separately, basted them at the neck and sleeves, then sewed on pockets and closed it all up with the cuffs, collar, button placket and hem. I unstitched and reinforced the collar with percale interfacing after everyone voted yes in my stories, and even did a little bit of hand sewing on the cuffs and splits (thanks to @vrouwlijn_wonderlijk).

It’s still zero waste despite my modifications – I used the extra fabric from my unmodified plackets for the pocket tabs, the lining neck cutouts for a little key pocket inside, and the mitered corner scraps for diagnosing and fixing my machine tension issues. I really wanted the pen pocket but I’m just too short and it didn’t work with this cropped version of the jacket. So instead I put it inside as a secret phone pocket 😊

I did run into some tension issues with my sewing machine towards the end – turned out it really needed some maintenance after a few months of intensive use, and branded needles and thread. But now I know how to take it apart to deep clean it! And I ordered a little maintenance kit to keep it oiled and tuned going forwards.

#zerowastesewing #zerowastepattern #sustainablefashion #sustainablesewing #slowfashion #workwearjacket #chorejacket #petitesewing